Lonely Planet said "The trek is not to be taken lightly, even for those in good physical shape, it's a workout. The path constrict and crumbles, it certainly can wreck the knees" I'm definitely not a big hiker, have weak knees and years of sitting behind office desk
had corrupted both my stamina and guts to walk on Tiger Leaping Gorge
(Hutiao Xia). Those line from LP make it even worse.
The gorgeous gorge has 2 trails, The Higher (walking path) and The Lower (vehicle path). Getting better form my acid reflux problem, I was really not sure to take the higher trail, and the fact that I arrived there alone by 2 PM was one of the reason I would just take the lower trail instead. So I decided to ask around for the bus heading to the middle rapids and just in time I bumped into a French couple, Amandine and Thomas. I changed my mind in seconds after they nodded when I asked if I could join them walk the higher trail. A decision I feel grateful the most.
So after had some late lunchie and put our luggage in Jane's guesthouse, we started our 12 hours walk (normally people will do it in 10, some fast feet can do it in half of our time). It's all way beautiful there, I don't understand why people rushing. If I have another chance to walk that trail again, I'll take even more time to enjoy and stay longer there. It took exactly 2 hours to get to our first stop, Naxi Family Guesthouse located in a valley surrounded by the snowcapped peaks of Haba Shan dan YuLong XueShan. What can be more tranquil and serene? It's not an easy start for me, I was out of breath most of the time catching with Amandine and Thomas, I blamed the afternoon heat!! On our way, we were stopped and 'forced' to buy some fruits. it's part of tourist trap where you have no other way and have to pay some little money to pass through, but I didn't mind to pay tho the fruits were not even succulent. How come one say NO to a hilarious old lady? Ohh...have I said how I love our guesthouse that night? It's not only has wonderful location, it also serves good foods :')
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| "The Shark" viewed from the hilarious old lady spot |
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| Dinner, must try: Yak Buttered Tea! |
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Walking with a Caucasian couple and myself a Chinese, made most of people think that I'm their guide, and they tend to talk to me first rather than to Amandine and Thomas, which was a big mistake cause my Chinese is way worse than theirs, since they has been living in Shanghai for about 2 years, I know I'm such a joke #FailedChinese. And Jasmine was one of those people who got us wrong that day, she babbled in one breath toward me till she realized I didn't understand a word *stupid grin on ma face* She's kinda person who talk to everybody and anybody, literally!! And she makes a perfect travel buddy for the next couples of days.
We walked down the valley that afternoon tried to see the bottom of the gorge, but failed cos the gorge near that place is too narrow. It's a perfect getaway but I couldn't imagine living there, it must be pretty tough :| The local people living there survive by planting crops and renting donkeys to tourists. I was tempted to take donkey ride too, thanks to my coward guts and pessimistic personality, moreover after I heard bout how hard the 28 bends ahead. It's a part where we will ascend about 1 km in half an hour hike, I'm grateful once again not to ride the donkey, considering how steep the path. But the most reason I didn't take it cause I think 100 Yuan for that ride is not fair for them (yet I couldn't pay more due to my limited budget), and cos the old man we met that night said usually only Koreans take the donkey ride, Opssy!! I'm still an Indonesian with pride, pfftt...
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| Team after breakkie, ready for the 28 bends |
We walked for almost 8 hours the second day and reached Tina's guesthouse that located right above the middle rapids. Compared to the other guesthouse we passed by, this concrete building seems out of place, but its location was irresistable. Well the other guesthouse might looked alike in traditional architecture, but still I love them all. We made lunch stop at Tea Horse Guesthouse with an open air dining table with snowy peaks as background. My personal favorite must be Half Way Guesthouse, it has a super nice balcony face the mountains, I could just sit there for hours if only we stayed overnight there, too bad we only made for the toilet stop :(
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| Lunch Time at Tea Horse Guesthouse |
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| Half Way Guesthouse |
The Walk between Tea Horse Guesthouse and Half Way Guesthouse was relatively easy, took us 2 hours with slow pace cos we made ton of photo stops all the way. Guess it's my favorite part of the trek :p
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| Upper Rapid seen from the High Trail |
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| Nice straightforward walk with great view |
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| Splashed through a waterfall |
I do have the rights to be proud of myself, cos my knees didn't hurt at all after those pretty long trek. I usually drag my ass off when it started to be hurt, mostly after more than 3 hours walk especially with long descending trek. The path before reaching Tina's Guesthouse was a long hop down and extremely steep, descending slippery poor path that might twist your ankle. I regain my confidence that I thought about hiking on Sinabung Mountain when I get back, something I haven't done yet after 5 months being back at home :p
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| Can you hear the roaring water? |
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| Middle Tiger Rapids |
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| Climbing up the 30 meter 'Sky ladder' |
Going down to the Middle Tiger Rapids is another challenge, but definitely worth it. After all, gotta agree that it's gorgeous almost every single step of the way :)
