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Tampilkan postingan dengan label lugu lake. Tampilkan semua postingan

Kamis, 19 Juli 2012

Walking Marriage at Lugu Lake

The most common way to getting around Lugu Lake is by cycling, damn!! For unfortunate people like me that can’t ride a bike, that’s a disaster. All of my partners in crime decided to have biking trip, and then took the overpriced boat trip to the other side of the lake, the Yunnan side. The boat ride getting to Lige or LuoShui cost around 90 Yuan per person, and renting car will cost 150 Yuan, but nobody wanted to share that car with me, so I decided to try my luck on hitchhiking. I almost gave up when realized no cars on the road, just some tourists biking around, and the first motorbike that stopped, asked for money to take me to town. But luckily after walked a bit farther, an empty minivan stopped to give me a ride, with bonus-the driver was cute ;)

After arriving town, I need to find cars heading to LuoShui as well, my best chance was when the bus arrives at the afternoon, but it means I should wait for more than 5 hours in a small town with relatively no attractions and you can go from one end to the other in 10 minutes walk. So I tried to hitchhike again,and not so long after a minivan stopped, the driver asked for 30 Yuan to take me to LuoShui, it was a good deal for me, so I hopped in. Apparently the minivan was rented by some aunties from Shanghai for getting around the lake, and we made a lot of stops to take pictures. Along the way, we saw lots of people biking, getting red like crabs and sweating like a pig, one of the aunties said to the other “Look at them, luckily we took the car” Couldn’t agree more!! LoL

I can easily say LuoShui is one of my favorite place, nice weather, streets with cobbled stones, I could sit by the lake doing nothing, singing along while plugged into music, and romantic for sure. If only I had a lover there, I’d wish for time to stop, pfft… 

The walking marriage practiced by the local minority-the Mosuo, somehow spread more pheromones in the air. It’s a matriarchal society, a woman kingdom where the grandmother becomes the head of the family. It sounds like paradise for irresponsible men, they can get laid to as many girls as they want to, don’t have to officially marry the girl, don’t have to earn money for the family and don’t even have to raise the children. But in the other hand, it’s kinda sad for type of family guys, they don’t have the social power and have no rights for the woman they love, nor even their own children. If a woman and a man are interested in each other, the man can come to her house at the night, and BANG!! But he has to get back to his own house the next morning. If the woman get pregnant, the child will be raised by the woman’s family. Most of the children know exactly who their biological father is, but they won’t talk about it in public. At school, it’s considered offensive asking the children, ‘who is your father?’  And since they can’t raise their own children, the men in the family usually help to raise his sister’s children. That’s why, the women of Mosuo are typical hard worker and independent ones, they have to work their ass off to earn money for the family. I salute you Mosuo girls :D

I didn’t have any plan on where to go next, until my dorm buddy-Mike the Oz guy, convinced me to do Tiger Leaping Gorges. I should definitely thank him, it’s my personal piece of paradise on earth :)

Xiao Hei, I'm In Love


My biggest disappointment was not able to go to Western Sichuan, it was closed for foreigners due to an incident involving a monk that burned himself. When I was in Chengdu, Tibet was just re-opened and I was pretty optimistic that I could go to western Sichuan too, but unfortunately I couldn’t. Devastated in despair, I had to go through Lugu Lake to get to Yunnan, which is not a bad idea after all cos I did enjoyed my time there.

After arriving in Xichang by a night train from Chengdu, I went to a internet café next to the train station to get some information about Lugu Lake. I had no clue at all bout that place. But another silly rule from the Chinese government, foreigners can’t be online at internet café, WTF!! and Chinese themselves have to scan their ID to use internet. Later I heard that in Beijing, sometime they need to take picture first before online. Urghh…

A Chinese girl at the internet café felt pity for me and offered herself to travel with me, I speak a very little Chinese and she speaks no English, what a perfect travel buddy! Together with this girl-Wan Ping, another Western Sichuan victims-two Switzerland girls and a Hungarian TaiChi Master, we stayed the first night in Sichuan part of the lake. I cried inside when paid the admission fee, 80 fricking Yuan!!! I never have to pay for the magnificent Lake Toba that might be at least 5 times bigger than this lake. If you’re coming from Yunnan part, you have to pay 100Yuan for the same lake, so I can’t complain. I made promise to myself, if one day I’m back to China, I need a fake student card for 50% discount admission fee. Everything is cheap in China, everything but the admissions. 
Quite Lane of Wuzhiluo
The only recommended guesthouse there was Wind’s Guesthouse, it’s pretty much because that’s the only one with dorm beds, and the location-Wuzhiluo is a very laid back place, but for me it’s not that fun cos it’s not by the lake. We need to walk at least 15 minutes to get to LouWa to see the lake.  So on one breezy afternoon, me and Wan Ping walked to the lake and tried to find a place to spot sunset, we couldn’t have a real conversation, but somehow we could communicate well, most of the time when I used my magic word “ting bu dong” we'd just chuckled and laughed. We couldn’t reach the place for sunset cos it’s covered by a hill, but it was great to have a ‘guide’ to walk around the lake. A little black puppy ‘insist’ to lead our way and we named it Xiao Hei, the most common name for black dog that literally means Little Black. The first time we saw it coming out of the bush, it was eating a dead bird, but somehow it kept following us and when it walked quite far ahead of us, it’ll stop for a moment until we’re getting closer, then it would continue walking. It didn’t bark at all, but just turned its head staring at us and waited in silence, then continued walking again. It became our guide for more than one hour until it almost dark. That was so damn cute and touching, but it’s just another unavoidable sad goodbye. I was broken hearted.

Adorable Xiao Hei