Sumatra part 2 ~ Hidden Gems of Payakumbuh

Green Payakumbuh

 If there's something  I truly believe in, it must be the words "Everything happens for a reason" After being stranded, I recalled a friend in Medan that offered to stay at his factory at Payakumbuh, a town one hour from Bukittinggi. I hesitate at the beginning, cos a factory must be out of nowhere (I don't mind tho) but it means I have to bother his employee during my stay, but considering that its closed to Harau Valley~my limelight destination, and I didn't have plan B, finally I buzzed those friend and ended up stayed 2 nights at his factory. 

The bus ride from Medan was nice (except the fact that it stopped for dinner at 12AM), its big window offered me incredible scene along the way from Lumbanjulu to Prosea. I've passed this road quite sometimes but never realized that it's so beautiful. As the road turned darker when reaching Balige, I zonked with the help of tiny pink pill called Antimo.

Ko Jack picked me up and took me for a scrumptious lunch of grilled fish and Dendeng Batokok. This thin beef meat easily becomes one of my fave foods, thus I tried to have it as many as I can during my trip in West Sumatra and Jambi. He then drove me to Harau Valley, which is far beyond my expectation, I should remind myself for not setting the bar too high for typical popular local tourist destinations. This place remind me of Bantimurung Waterfall of Maros, South Sulawesi. This two waterfalls though not look-a-like but have something in common, crowded and lots of trash. But to my surprise, the view around the factory is incredible (located nearby Harau Valley and shared some part of same Karst hills). Hidden in the village, there's a resort named Larangan resort that (again) surprisingly success to awe me. By the time I left Payakumbuh, I was overwhelmed with grateful feelings. I'm grateful for my great host~Ko Jack, for all the good foods I had, for all those amazing places and moments, best part of that-I didn't even have to spend a dime for all of that (cheapshit mode). I won't experienced that if only I didn't get stranded at the first place. Thanks Bunga for not showing up that morning :')

View around the factory

Larangan Resort

Sumatra part I ~ Stranded by Stranger

I have a bad habit for writing down my solo trip only, the mood never swing on the right track when I had a casual trip with friends or family. Maybe when I'm alone I contemplate more, or maybe it's a memory I can keep for myself only. When traveling with other people, we can always reminiscing "Do you remember when bla bla bla..."  But when you hit the road by yourself, you should write it down otherwise your rusty brain will leave the memories back to the places where you won't have any idea where to find anymore.

It's a trip to attend a friend's wedding in Jakarta actually, had kept my eyes on the flight ticket eversince I decided to go several months ago, but it never hit the promo price due to holiday season. Not until one week before D-day I finally booked the ticket flight back home from Semarang via KL (which cost me less than fly back from Jakarta) and decided to try my ass on the bumpy road of Sumatra all the way from Medan to Jakarta.

I knew I'll spend the same or even more on the road than fly directly to Jakarta, but I choose the hard way, hahaha...a decision I'll never regret anyway. If I have more time and one traveling partner I want to hitchhike all the way down to the south, but I only had one week and nobody want to join me T__T so I took the bus instead (yeah I have no guts to do solo hitchhiking on Sumatra, plus it's too tiring to do it alone for such a long trip). So long story shorted, I got a friend to book the bus ticket to my first stop, Bukittinggi! 

Bukittinggi is always special for me, as it was our (me and Shanty) first backpacking/hithchiking trip back to 2009, so it's kinda a reminiscing trip as I re-visit the same place in order to attend her wedding party. Eventho I ended up visiting some totally different places and only had a chance to drive pass some familiar road. ~Places look the same, and we're the only different~

It all began when I got stranded cos my host didn't show up. I sent request to some couchsurfers in Bukittinggi, no female CSers replied my message :( and some male rejected my request, cos it's kinda complicated for guys to host girls overthere. So there's one guy (just named him Bunga) replied me and said he'll try to find me a couch and will pick me up since he's free that day. 

After 21 hours on the bus, I touchdown at Bukittinggi almost 2 hours earlier than its schedule, so I called Bunga right after. My phonecall was answered in second but nothing except loud sound of children shouting (I couldn't catch any of their words), then I tried to call again for more than 10 times in the next 2 hours and nobody picked up the phone anymore. I was worried if something bad happen to Bunga, he sounds like a decent nice guy and I couldn't think of any reasons why he didn't answer my calls. So I dropped a message to his friend (that gave him strong reference on his CS profile) and asked if he's ok. To my surprise, his friend replied later on that day said he's fine, suddently busy and couldn't pick me up. I was like WTF!!! Dudeeee why didn't he just said that? I'll respect him if he just told me right away and a simple apology is much appreciated. But apparently until today (just finished my 3 weeks trip and arrived at home), he never drop me any explanation. This guy seriously needs a big lesson of what RESPONSIBILITY means. I didn't bother to leave any negative reference on his CS profile since he doesn't seem to give a damn bout CS anyway. But truly hope he'll man up a bit in near future and stop being a pussy *roarrr*

Long Way to Meet the Dragon

@KakabanTrip, supa like this pic, can't help to share it :p

Here I am, sitting alone in my room on Saturday night, no date, no movie file to be watched, no nothing for me to munch, pretty much pathetic yeahhh...Started to wonder where I'm going to for the next trip, and realized that my last trip was last November, and it's frickin' June already! Due to financial crisis, I'm kinda taking pledge for not having any trip this year. Yet I still have no outstanding ticket for next year :'( Still waiting for promo tickets to India & Nepal, or Taiwan & Phillipines *crossing fingers and toes*

Talking about my trip to Flores last November, I just realized I didn't post anything about it here, tho I had 2 articles about that trip posted at a local teen lifestyle magazine, which I'm not too proud of, lousy writing and awful pictures printing (more of paycheck mode). It was a remarkable trip after all, one week in Celebes (Makassar to Toraja), then 2 weeks hitchhiking in Flores (Larantuka to Labuan Bajo), another one week slacking around Bali, closing it with 2 days visiting friends in Malang.

Flores easily be my cup of tea, from its pristine beaches with crystal clear water and colorful corals, its savannah, its layered mountainous villages, its jaw dropping colored lakes, to its ancient world Komodo Dragon. It was a tough trip, the killer heat was the biggest issue for us who sat on an open truck most of the time (average 38-40 degrees Celcius during day time with the brightest sun one can ever imagine). A potential heat stroke created tension and sometimes we felt like giving up. We made it till the end to meet the dragon tho, eye to eye. Well..need no more saying, I'd just leave a link to my Facebook album cos I'll only upload some pictures here to appreciate those who gave us ride during the trip, we didn't always take pictures with everyone that had pulled over their vehicles for us, neither we remember every names of our heroes, but their kindness remains in our hearts.

The first car that gave us ride 

Pak Paul, a double time hero

The one that picked us up after almost 2 hours desperately waiting for a lift

The longest ride we ever had

A Town Called George

@Lebuh Armenian

[These street art project called Mirrors George Town was created by Lithuania artist Ernest Zacharevic for GeorgeTown Festival 2012. The project aims to create art that everyone can easily access and relate to. There's no fixed meaning; the artwork is open for interpretations, recreations and narratives.]

@Lebuh Canon

Penang -a place where char kwe tiaw never goes wrong- the island a stone throw away from Medan; A melting pot of Chinese, Indian, Malay cuisine that will spoil your taste bud with its simple yet rich of flavor dishes. 

I'm kinda people that enjoy walking too much. Most favorite part of my trip are usually the moment when I could walk alone, plugged into music, winds in my hair, and map on my hand (which never really guide me well). So did my lastest trip to Penang-which I predicted gonna be boring, but turned out to be pretty interesting. I wasn't actually be there for leisure or traveling, more for medical trip with my aunt. For a whole week, I went to hospital in the morning, got back to my hostel by afternoon, then walk around GeorgeTown till night. It has every reasons to be one of my favorite places to walk on earth; it has beautiful heritage houses (I was staying at one), nice afternoon weather (I don't feel like turning to steamed crab after a walk on bright sunny day), appealing street arts (these picturesque Zachas' works, and those intriguing comic strips) and of course hawkers on every corners!(well...almost).

Ohh how I long for a bowl of prawn mee and a glass of ice milo. Tip top!

@Lebuh Muntri

@Lebuh Ah Quee

@Penang Road

Tiger Leaping Gorgeous

 Lonely Planet said "The trek is not to be taken lightly, even for those in good physical shape, it's a workout. The path constrict and crumbles, it certainly can wreck the knees" I'm definitely not a big hiker, have weak knees and years of sitting behind office desk had corrupted both my stamina and guts to walk on Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hutiao Xia). Those line from LP make it even worse.

The gorgeous gorge has 2 trails, The Higher (walking path) and The Lower (vehicle path). Getting better form my acid reflux problem, I was really not sure to take the higher trail, and the fact that I arrived there alone by 2 PM was one of the reason I would just take the lower trail instead. So I decided to ask around for the bus heading to the middle rapids and just in time I bumped into a French couple, Amandine and Thomas. I changed my mind in seconds after they nodded when I asked if I could join them walk the higher trail. A decision I feel grateful the most.

So after had some late lunchie and put our luggage in Jane's guesthouse, we started our 12 hours walk (normally people will do it in 10, some fast feet can do it in half of our time). It's all way beautiful there, I don't understand why people rushing. If I have another chance to walk that trail again, I'll take even more time to enjoy and stay longer there. It took exactly 2 hours to get to our first stop, Naxi Family Guesthouse located in a valley surrounded by the snowcapped peaks of Haba Shan dan YuLong XueShan. What can be more tranquil and serene? It's not an easy start for me, I was out of breath most of the time catching with Amandine and Thomas, I blamed the afternoon heat!! On our way, we were stopped and 'forced' to buy some fruits. it's part of tourist trap where you have no other way and have to pay some little money to pass through, but I didn't mind to pay tho the fruits were not even succulent. How come one say NO to a hilarious old lady? Ohh...have I said how I love our guesthouse that night? It's not only has wonderful location, it also serves good foods :')

"The Shark" viewed from the hilarious old lady spot

Dinner, must try: Yak Buttered Tea!

Walking with a Caucasian couple and myself a Chinese, made most of people think that I'm their guide, and they tend to talk to me first rather than to Amandine and Thomas, which was a big mistake cause my Chinese is way worse than theirs, since they has been living in Shanghai for about 2 years, I know I'm such a joke #FailedChinese. And Jasmine was one of those people who got us wrong that day, she babbled in one breath toward me till she realized I didn't understand a word *stupid grin on ma face* She's kinda person who talk to everybody and anybody, literally!! And she makes a perfect travel buddy for the next couples of days.

We walked down the valley that afternoon tried to see the bottom of the gorge, but failed cos the gorge near that place is too narrow. It's a perfect getaway but I couldn't imagine living there, it must be pretty tough :| The local people living there survive by planting crops and renting donkeys to tourists. I was tempted to take donkey ride too, thanks to my coward guts and pessimistic personality, moreover after I heard bout how hard the 28 bends ahead. It's a part where we will ascend about 1 km in half an hour hike, I'm grateful once again not to ride the donkey, considering how steep the path. But the most reason I didn't take it cause I think 100 Yuan for that ride is not fair for them (yet I couldn't pay more due to my limited budget), and cos the old man we met that night said usually only Koreans take the donkey ride, Opssy!! I'm still an Indonesian with pride, pfftt...

Team after breakkie, ready for the 28 bends

We walked for almost 8 hours the second day and reached Tina's guesthouse that located right above the middle rapids. Compared to the other guesthouse we passed by, this concrete building seems out of place, but its location was irresistable. Well the other guesthouse might looked alike in traditional architecture, but still I love them all. We made lunch stop at Tea Horse Guesthouse with an open air dining table with snowy peaks as background. My personal favorite must be Half Way Guesthouse, it has a super nice balcony face the mountains, I could just sit there for hours if only we stayed overnight there, too bad we only made for the toilet stop :(

Lunch Time at Tea Horse Guesthouse

Half Way Guesthouse

The Walk between Tea Horse Guesthouse and Half Way Guesthouse was relatively easy, took us 2 hours with slow pace cos we made ton of photo stops all the way. Guess it's my favorite part of the trek :p

Upper Rapid seen from the High Trail

Nice straightforward walk with great view

Splashed through a waterfall

I do have the rights to be proud of myself, cos my knees didn't hurt at all after those pretty long trek. I usually drag my ass off when it started to be hurt, mostly after more than 3 hours walk especially with long descending trek. The path before reaching Tina's Guesthouse was a long hop down and extremely steep, descending slippery poor path that might twist your ankle. I regain my confidence that I thought about hiking on Sinabung Mountain when I get back, something I haven't done yet after 5 months being back at home :p

Can you hear the roaring water?

Middle Tiger Rapids

Climbing up the 30 meter 'Sky ladder'

Going down to the Middle Tiger Rapids is another challenge, but definitely worth it. After all, gotta agree that it's gorgeous almost every single step of the way :)

Lijiang Old Town - iCame, iSaw, iPuked

The road stretched from Lugu Lake to Lijiang is definitely one of my favorite, the view along the road was jaw dropping, from layered mountain range to the mighty Jinsha River, and it’s turquoise!! 

Turquoise Jinsha River

My Lijiang host, KaiYang picked me up at the bus station to have an appropriate dinner together, finally! I got messed up appetite during my times in Lugu Lake, sometimes I ate, but most of the time I couldn’t eat, I survived from crackers and hellish bread. It’s about time to take its toll on me. 

KaiYang is a typical proud Chinese, but an educated, mature and reasonable one, so it’s nice to see China nowadays through her eyes. Not like some youngsters I met that unsatisfied bout the government, but do nothing but complain and being pessimistic, she accepts any situation with big heart, optimist bout the future, and do something most important, provide better education for the children. Every country would have better future if have more people like her :)

Lijiang GuCheng (Old Town) is beautiful in every corners, but somehow it feels fake, Oppsy...Like a gorgeous actress with plastic surgery, it’s too perfectly commercialized with throngs of people visiting everyday. But you can always take sweet escape to more quite lanes, lots of alleys that will amaze and amuse you. I walked around for hours but still can always find alleys I’ve never passed before. There was pretty bad draught during my visit there, and Mike-my Lugu Lake dorm buddy, told me not to spend my dime on Black Dragon Pool, which admission 80Yuan and no water in the pool at that time, so we can’t see the reflection of Yulong Xue Shan (Dragon Jade Snow Mountain) that become one of the must picture spot of Lijiang.

Roofs of Lijiang

YuLong XueShan

Not long after had a scrumptious brunch set of toast, sunny side eggs, hashbrown and bacon, I started to feel my upset belly. Feeling about to throw up is absolutely annoying, being disoriented and I couldn’t even think of how to get my way out of the old town, so I just let myself being ‘tortured’ among a bunch of Naxi old ladies dancing at the square. I’d probably join them dancing in circle if I didn’t feel that sick. Finally I made up my mind to drag my feet out of the old town, but only in one two steps, I threw up…at the most crowded square of Lijiang! It was such a big relief and I could think again in seconds, but dang! I still had no idea which way to go out of there. But then I remember KaiYang told me that Yulong Xue Shan is at the north and her place is at the south, so I followed my own shadow heading to south till I got to the street and caught the bus back to my couch. I spent the next day resting and doing nothing. It’d be totally suck being sick and alone at guesthouse, so I was still grateful that I had a host, a very nice and care one indeed.

Postcard from Jasmine

Walking Marriage at Lugu Lake

The most common way to getting around Lugu Lake is by cycling, damn!! For unfortunate people like me that can’t ride a bike, that’s a disaster. All of my partners in crime decided to have biking trip, and then took the overpriced boat trip to the other side of the lake, the Yunnan side. The boat ride getting to Lige or LuoShui cost around 90 Yuan per person, and renting car will cost 150 Yuan, but nobody wanted to share that car with me, so I decided to try my luck on hitchhiking. I almost gave up when realized no cars on the road, just some tourists biking around, and the first motorbike that stopped, asked for money to take me to town. But luckily after walked a bit farther, an empty minivan stopped to give me a ride, with bonus-the driver was cute ;)

After arriving town, I need to find cars heading to LuoShui as well, my best chance was when the bus arrives at the afternoon, but it means I should wait for more than 5 hours in a small town with relatively no attractions and you can go from one end to the other in 10 minutes walk. So I tried to hitchhike again,and not so long after a minivan stopped, the driver asked for 30 Yuan to take me to LuoShui, it was a good deal for me, so I hopped in. Apparently the minivan was rented by some aunties from Shanghai for getting around the lake, and we made a lot of stops to take pictures. Along the way, we saw lots of people biking, getting red like crabs and sweating like a pig, one of the aunties said to the other “Look at them, luckily we took the car” Couldn’t agree more!! LoL

I can easily say LuoShui is one of my favorite place, nice weather, streets with cobbled stones, I could sit by the lake doing nothing, singing along while plugged into music, and romantic for sure. If only I had a lover there, I’d wish for time to stop, pfft… 

The walking marriage practiced by the local minority-the Mosuo, somehow spread more pheromones in the air. It’s a matriarchal society, a woman kingdom where the grandmother becomes the head of the family. It sounds like paradise for irresponsible men, they can get laid to as many girls as they want to, don’t have to officially marry the girl, don’t have to earn money for the family and don’t even have to raise the children. But in the other hand, it’s kinda sad for type of family guys, they don’t have the social power and have no rights for the woman they love, nor even their own children. If a woman and a man are interested in each other, the man can come to her house at the night, and BANG!! But he has to get back to his own house the next morning. If the woman get pregnant, the child will be raised by the woman’s family. Most of the children know exactly who their biological father is, but they won’t talk about it in public. At school, it’s considered offensive asking the children, ‘who is your father?’  And since they can’t raise their own children, the men in the family usually help to raise his sister’s children. That’s why, the women of Mosuo are typical hard worker and independent ones, they have to work their ass off to earn money for the family. I salute you Mosuo girls :D

I didn’t have any plan on where to go next, until my dorm buddy-Mike the Oz guy, convinced me to do Tiger Leaping Gorges. I should definitely thank him, it’s my personal piece of paradise on earth :)